| Opener completely dead - no response | Tripped breaker, blown fuse, or dead control board | Check the breaker panel. Verify any GFCI outlets near the operator. Look for indicator LEDs on the board. | Capacitor replacement, breaker reset, or control-board swap |
| Motor hums but the opener doesn't move | Failed capacitor (most common) or a seized gearbox | Try the manual release lever. If the opener moves freely by hand, the capacitor is the issue. | Capacitor sized to your opener's spec |
| Opens fine but won't close (reverses) | Photo-eye sensor misalignment, obstruction, or failure | Check the two photo-eye boxes near the floor. Clean the lenses with microfiber and confirm both show steady LEDs. | Photo-eye realignment and lens cleaning |
| Remote works, keypad doesn't (or vice versa) | Receiver board failure or wiped programming | Test the hardwired wall button. If it works, the receiver needs reprogramming. | Receiver reprogramming or board replacement |
| Sliding opener jerks, scrapes, or jumps track | Bent V-track, a worn roller, or chain tension off | Look down the opener's bottom track. Visible kinks or worn metal mean replacement is needed. | V-track straightening and roller replacement |
| Opener overshoots open or stops short | Limit switch out of adjustment or failed | Limit switches are not user-serviceable on most modern operators. Don't adjust them - call us. | Limit switch recalibration or replacement |
| Loud grinding, knocking, or chain-slap | Worn drive chain, a broken sprocket, or bearing failure | Inspect the drive chain along its length. Stretched chains hang loose between the sprockets. | Drive chain or sprocket replacement |
| Intercom buzzes or the screen is blank | Power supply, wiring corrosion, or call-station board | Most intercom faults are wiring. Don't try to diagnose it - we use proper testers. | Intercom wiring diagnostic and repair |